Q: Your approach to cooking has been described as ethically-centred. How do you define ‘ethical food,’ and how has this definition evolved throughout your career?
A: ‘Ethical food’ is perhaps a term I’d avoid using as a description of cooking, just as I might avoid the term ‘sustainable’. The modern-day terms that are invented as a byproduct of the modern-day climate crisis may have in the past been summarised with phrases such as make and “make do”, “grow your own”, “waste not want not”.
The new Green Revolution often feels very dogmatic at the very hands of those that stand to benefit financially.
“For me it boils down to common sense and remembering the values you are raised with. As Where The Light Gets In has progressed, our knowledge of farming and food production has grown and so we have been guided by the expansion of this knowledge with one main intention at the core; to have as low a negative impact on our environment as possible as a business.”
This means a considered approach to all of our decision-making regarding inputs. Sourcing produce from localised market gardens, working with day boat fisheries, as well as taking care in choosing who looks after our pensions. A holistic approach to the everyday operation is really important.
Q: What connections do you see between the choices made in professional kitchens and broader food system sustainability?
A: Professional kitchens have certainly become more concerned by the environmental issues surrounding our choices. Many are acting responsibly and championing producers who are in line with a conscious effort to make food systems greener and more equitable for everyone involved.
“There are more initiatives and incentives now, that focus on rewarding sustainable practice in hospitality. These schemes come from the marketing departments of larger companies eager to jump on the ‘green bandwagon’, but they do highlight a greener path to restaurants both wishing to do their bit and to stay relevant.”
Q: Our event explores how food might become a force for good. Can you share examples from your work where food has created positive change?
A: Every night we make a connection with at least one table over a story about a farmer or a certain process we utilise. It is satisfying to realise that around any table a good food story is likely to make an impact. So, I would say the ability and privilege to share food each night affects the greatest positive change.
We also run a kitchen garden that is open as a community garden called The Landing. The Landing is a charity that works in the community to highlight positive food systems. One of our projects is led in primary schools and teaches children the journey of grain to loaf. It culminates in our bakery where we pick up the loaves to be baked.
“Being able to teach at this level is incredibly impactful not just on the children but the teachers and the members of the team delivering the course. It is also of note that through food the whole syllabus can be reached, from History, Geography and RE through to Maths, English and Science.”
Q: Dr. Lesley Mitchell will be discussing regenerative farming in her talk. How has your relationship with farmers and food producers influenced your cooking philosophy?
A: As our relationships have developed over time, the farmers and food producers we work with have influenced our cooking. We can see the difficulties in farming, rearing or fishing in a natural system – that is to say one without chemicals, pesticides, mass feedlots or deep-sea trawlers.
“We operate on a ‘work with what you’ve got’ policy whereby the farmer or producer leads the conversation. So, rather than demand a certain size of radish or apples in June, we will take what the farmer can provide.”
Often a crop may fail due to weather conditions or other unforeseeable factors. If the seas are rough, the small boats we work with cannot leave the harbour. In these cases, it is important to be adaptable and resourceful. We have come to call this philosophy Responsive Cooking.
By responding pragmatically and with an understanding of the rigours of food production, it’s true that we limit our choices; but this approach boosts creativity. We rely more on our skill as cooks and our resourcefulness as crafts people to create.
Q: Many people feel overwhelmed by conflicting food advice. What simple principles guide your personal food choices?
A: It is not easy to live with food now. The different messages we receive as consumers can make us feel overwhelmed and we are coerced by guilt to make the right choice though it is not ever clear what the right choice is.
As a dad I am often in conflict over what to provide for my daughter. I really try to stay out of supermarkets where possible, so I know I am buying whole foods and avoiding UPF (ultra-processed foods) with opaque origins.
We only eat meat once or twice a week, though I am not too strict with this as a good chicken broth on the side, made from a carcass over the weekend, is an useful ally. I try my best not to waste food and to get the most from any one ingredient. We are all juggling so much these days and it is tricky enough without the feeling of guilt. If I can be more playful around food and accept that I will not always get it right at home, then it is easier to approach in the first place.
Q: How do you balance making ethical food that’s also accessible and affordable?
A: Making food choices at home ethical, affordable and accessible seems to me the most difficult conundrum within the modern family dilemma.
It is not surprising though that this balance is difficult as we have never been given the tools necessary. To make food accessible and affordable one must have the tools, the knowledge and the confidence. These tools and this knowledge are not available at school. There is nothing in the curriculum to develop the knowledge.
What’s more with the necessity of both parents in two parent families needing to work to keep on top of staggering living costs, we have lost a role model at home. In my opinion the role of a parent at home is a full-time job and one that is incredibly important. It is at home where we learn to manage a food budget and to cook meals that are both healthy and appealing.
I am fortunate because my craft has given me the skills that I can transfer into a home environment, but I still find it incredibly difficult. I try to keep things as simple as possible and I try to not give myself a hard time when it goes wrong.
“Giving myself more time around preparation of food – a realistic amount of time – and making the preparation and planning a family activity can help. Conversations around tomorrow night’s meal during tonight’s meal help to make us a food obsessed and informed family!”
We try to grow a little food at home, and although this often ends with stunted parsnips or broccoli that the slugs enjoy more, it does get us closer to food. My family can understand food a little more just through these attempts. And hopefully it can be quite fun too.
Q: What role do you think chefs and restaurants play in creating a ‘good food future’?
A: Chefs and restaurant can influence through setting trends. In recent years chefs have enjoyed a stage to express their craft. Platforms like Instagram have made food and cooking sexy. It’s also never been so easy to access ideas and recipes, so really using these mediums to communicate positive choices could play a big part.
Q: What food innovations are you most excited about, and which ones concern you?
A: I am most excited by urban growing, greening spaces and utilising public space to learn about growing food. And what scares me the most? Lab meat.
Thank you to Sam Buckley from Where The Light Gets In for taking the time to answer our questions.
Our event – How Can We Create a Good Food Future – takes place in Manchester on Monday 12 May.
